Kudos to Park Avenue Autumn; Jeers to the Five GuysPark Avenue Autumn’s gimmicky concept might have turned Frank Bruni catty but for the fact that Craig Konketsu’s cooking is so flawlessly brilliant. The place got two stars, and the review reads like three. [NYT]
Paul Adams must be a happy man today just for the headline he came up with for his positive review of the cheese-centric newcomer Casellula: “The Cheese Stands Alone.” It sounds like it does, too, with what might be the best macaroni and cheese going. [NYS]
Peter Meehan puts the Five Guys, and their deliberately dried-out, overrated burger, in their place; Julia Moskin gives Market Table its first praise, a measured and thoughtful mini-review. [NYT]
What Do You Mean? We Love the Upper East Side!
Dear Grub Street,
The Upper West Side is teeming with activity, as is every other area of Manhattan, but I very rarely see anything on the Upper East Side. What have you got against the several hundred thousand people who live there and their restaurants and chefs?
— A reader with a valid gripe.
City Council Might Tackle Labor Violations; Drunks Abound at High-EndCustomers get drunk, carry on, and throw up even at the finest restaurants. Especially at the finest restaurants: “More people throw up in the dining room of Per Se than your average college bar.” [NYT]
The City Council is considering a law that would put labor violations on par with health violations, in an effort to protect vulnerable immigrant workers. [NPR]
Mocktails are on the rise, thanks to “the whole rehab thing,” and nowhere more successfully than at Indochine. [NYP]
Sandro’s Latest Restaurant Is As Good As His Last One
Sandro Frioriti has been bopping around New York for 22 years, catering to plutocrats at restaurants on the Upper East Side, the Hamptons, and Chelsea, not to mention other stops all over Manhattan and Brooklyn. But that doesn’t make his most recent Sandro’s, announced by Rob and Robin in the current round of Openings, any less good. Its menu reveals a roster of Roman classics that you don’t see everywhere – spaghettini with lemon sauce, sea-urchin ravioli, pan-seared cuttlefish with artichokes. The prices it shows are pretty good too, especially given the kind of neighborhood grandees who will likely be filling the room night in and night out.
Openings: Spirito Ristorante, Perilla, Casellula Cheese & Wine Café, and Sandro’s. [NYM]