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Restaurant Review

  1. restaurant review
    At Gage & Tollner, Meticulous Preservation Meets (Just Enough) Innovation“The result feels like a kind of marvel.”
    By Adam Platt
  2. restaurant review
    Francie’s Haute Comfort Cooking Is Subtly LavishFrom caviar and lobster to New York’s last remaining cheese cart.
    By Adam Platt
  3. restaurant review
    The Future of Sushi?At Rosella, local and sustainable sourcing trumps traditional supply chains.
    By Adam Platt
  4. restaurant review
    India Off the Beaten PathFor their latest venture, Dhamaka, the owners of Queens hit Adda delve deeply into the country’s most local pleasures.
    By Adam Platt
  5. underground gourmet quick bite
    Cafedelia Brings a Georgian Feast to Greenwich VillageThe khinkali have landed on 8th Street.
    By Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld
  6. underground gourmet quick bite
    Mark’s Off Madison Is More Than Just Freds With an ApostropheAt Mark Strausman’s new restaurant, the eclectic (though not inexpensive) comfort-food menu seems tailor-made for the present moment.
    By Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite
  7. first taste
    Pecking House’s Chinese Fried ChickenA poultry pop-up with secret passwords.
    By Adam Platt
  8. the underground gourmet digest
    The Underground Gourmet’s Year-End DigestThe best new comfort food we ate in 2020.
    By Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld
  9. restaurant review
    Cold Comforts at Mokyo and Silver ApricotTwo downtown Asian-inspired kitchens brave the elements with distinctly personal, creative cooking.
    By Adam Platt
  10. first taste
    Don’t Call Yellow Rose Tex-MexAt the new East Village canteen, the vegan queso rivals the beef chili.
    By Adam Platt
  11. first taste
    A New Chinese Café Finds Some Fans in the Platt FamilyMilu offers a different spin on the traditional carryout model.
    By Adam Platt
  12. restaurant review
    At Ernesto’s, Not Much (and Everything) Has ChangedAdam Platt returns to Ryan Bartlow’s Basque-inspired taverna, which was the last dining room he patronized as a working critic in March.
    By Adam Platt
  13. underground gourmet quick bite
    Fat Choy Makes Vegan Food Carnivores CraveRice rolls, Mushroom Sloppys, and beans and greens.
    By Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld
  14. the underground gourmet
    The HiHi Room Revives the Criminally Underrepresented SliderNew York’s foremost regional-food geeks tackle the Ur-burger.
    By Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite
  15. underground gourmet quick bite
    To Placate Cuomo, Botanica Bar Adds Sourdough Pizza to Its MenuFor years, the dive bar’s customers got by on peanuts.
    By Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld
  16. the underground gourmet
    Dame Summer Club Gives Fish and Chips a Major-League UpgradeThe Underground Gourmet on a consummately British meal.
    By Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld
  17. the underground gourmet
    The Underground Gourmet Re-creates Altro Paradiso at HomeIgnacio Mattos’s meal kits are a welcome reprieve from quarantine cooking.
    By Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite
  18. restaurant review
    Verōnika Is a Grand Cafe With a Broadly European Menu That Lacks Point of ViewStephen Starr’s latest is located in a Swedish-based photography museum.
    By Adam Platt
  19. the underground gourmet review
    At Golden Diner, Deliciousness Is in the DetailsBy focusing on quality ingredients and using fine-dining technique, chef Sam Yoo makes quotidian classics that taste both familiar and fresh.
    By Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite
  20. restaurant review
    The Chez Ma Tante Team’s Le Crocodile Is Unabashedly Old-School FrenchFor devotees of the old brasserie canon, there’s plenty to like about the cooking at the Chez Ma Tante team’s second restaurant.
    By Adam Platt
  21. restaurant review
    Portale Is a Neighborhood Spot With Modest Ambitions and Praiseworthy PastaIt’s Alfred Portale’s eponymous second act.
    By Adam Platt
  22. restaurant review
    Nami Nori Is Cheap, Delicious, and Made for MillennialsThis improbable hit sushi restaurant focuses on temaki hand rolls that will slide neatly into your Instagram feed.
    By Adam Platt
  23. crawl
    A Food Crawl Through the Newest Russ & Daughters, Sahadi’s, and Di Palo’sHow three of New York’s most iconic food shops are using new branches — and the universal appeal of the sandwich — to grow their brands.
    By Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite
  24. restaurant review
    Gotham Bar and Grill’s Modern Makeover Is Purely CulinaryTrying to keep the Old Guard happy while developing a new crowd of regulars is no easy task.
    By Adam Platt
  25. underground gourmet quick bite
    Hallie Meyer’s Caffe Panna Is Weirdly, Extraordinarily GreatWhipped cream and other delights.
    By Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld
  26. restaurant review
    Hutong’s Pan-Regional Fare Competes With the SceneryIf you’re in the market for posh, often very good Chinese cooking in midtown, you could do worse.
    By Adam Platt
  27. restaurant review
    Llama-San’s Version of Peruvian-Japanese Nikkei Cooking Gives Fusion a Good NameThe setting is casual but the food is inventive and ambitious.
    By Adam Platt
  28. the underground gourmet review
    Dua Kafe is an East Village Hub of Albanian Comfort Food and CultureYou might even run into a Kosovar crooner or two.
    By Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite
  29. restaurant review
    Red Hook Tavern Is an Homage to the Past in Every WayHometown Barbecue’s Billy Durney has designed his new venture as a tribute to the intimate corner taverns of his youth.
    By Adam Platt
  30. restaurant review
    Rezdôra Pays Homage to Emilia-Romagna, One of Italy’s Most Delicious RegionsIt’s a destination for rich pastas, but the sleeper might be the salumi plates.
    By Adam Platt
  31. restaurant review
    Maison Yaki Is an Inventive French Riff on a Japanese IzakayaThe skewers are classically sauced and the plates are small but filling.
    By Adam Platt
  32. the underground gourmet
    Bangklyn East Harlem Combines Its Owner’s Sartorial and Culinary PassionsVintage clothes and Thai-inspired comfort food share space in a quirky uptown café.
    By Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld
  33. restaurant review
    Finally, a Serious, Sophisticated Seafood Restaurant at the SeaportGlobally accented menu meets picturesque coastal setting at Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Fulton.
    By Adam Platt
  34. restaurant review
    Momofuku Brings Seoul to Hudson YardsHomestyle Korean cooking with cheffy touches propels Kāwi beyond its generic mall setting.
    By Adam Platt
  35. restaurant review
    Crown Shy Brings Uncommon Finesse to FidiChef James Kent’s precise, seasonal brand of cooking is on display at this deceptively ambitious new restaurant.
    By Adam Platt
  36. underground gourmet review
    José Andrés’s Spiffy New Spanish Diner Is an Iberian Take on the Greasy SpoonEggs every which way, plus lots more rib-sticking, grandma-style fare.
    By Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite
  37. underground gourmet quick bite
    The Georgian Cooking at Chelsea’s Chama Mama Is Gobsmackingly GoodThe new restaurant showcases the distinctive walnut-sauced, tart-fruited, dairy-enriched gastronomy of the former Soviet republic.
    By Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld
  38. restaurant review
    Thomas Keller’s TAK Room Provides Plenty of Retro (and Pricey) PleasureHis destination restaurant in Hudson Yards is outlandishly expensive and curiously satisfying.
    By Adam Platt
  39. restaurant review
    Au Cheval’s New York Outpost Seems More Familiar Than FreshThe eagerly awaited restaurant, which opened recently in Tribeca, has the kind of uneven, sometimes slapdash execution you often see at franchises.
    By Adam Platt
  40. restaurant review
    At Korean Hot-Pot Restaurant O:N, the Appetizers Nearly Upstage the Main EventChef Namhyung Woo’s menu shares an elevated fusion touch with places like Atoboy and Atomix, which belong to the same restaurant group.
    By Adam Platt
  41. underground gourmet quick bite
    Cult Coffee Shop Abraço Is Now a Nimble Little Vermouth and Cocktail Bar to BootThe bustling East Village social center has added evening hours, tasty new nighttime snacks, and some juicy wine on tap.
    By Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite
  42. underground gourmet review
    Ceviche Is the Star of Llamita’s New Nighttime MenuChef Erik Ramirez has revamped his Peruvian sandwich shop with a winning dinner service and a cozy new setting.
    By Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite
  43. restaurant review
    Oxalis Is Not Your Garden-Variety Neighborhood BistroYoung chef Nico Russell has ambition and creativity to spare at his fine-dining restaurant in Crown Heights.
    By Adam Platt
  44. restaurant review
    Rocco DiSpirito Makes a Nostalgic Return to the Kitchen at the Standard GrillThe TV chef is back with a carefully orchestrated menu of cream-drenched pastas, white-jacket service, and old-fashioned steaks and chops.
    By Adam Platt
  45. restaurant review
    At Leonti, Silver-Dome Dining Meets Bean SoupThe ambitious Upper West Side restaurant has a short, focused menu, filled with northerly Italian specialties.
    By Adam Platt
  46. first taste
    At the Psychedelic New Mission Chinese Food, Get the RibletsAdam Platt checks in on Danny Bowien’s Brooklyn outpost.
    By Adam Platt
  47. restaurant review
    Benno Is Technically Precise, Anti-Fad, and Refreshingly RefinedFormer Per Se and Lincoln chef Jonathan Benno finds his own culinary voice at his eponymous restaurant at the Evelyn Hotel.
    By Adam Platt
  48. the underground gourmet review
    Hot Hummus and “Mama Ghannouj” at Vish and ZyaraTwo pita-pocket-size spots serve up good cheer and great Middle Eastern grub.
    By Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld
  49. restaurant review
    Sushi Noz Is High Sushi TheaterEverything, from the room to the performatory cooking itself, is designed to transport you straight to Japan — or an idealized version of it.
    By Adam Platt
  50. restaurant review
    The New Four Seasons Feels Stuck in the PastThe talented young chef Diego Garcia and a $30 million space aren’t quite enough to revitalize a relocated restaurant.
    By Adam Platt
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