DeBragga and Spitler Will Supply Great Steakhouse Meat. Should You Buy It?Steakhouses are valued for one thing: their meat. There are no chefs, and no one goes there for the décor. So if the meat is available elsewhere, such as DeBragga and Spitler’s new retail operation, why bother with the steakhouse? The beef supplier, one of New York’s most established, was once the source for most of the city’s top steakhouses, and still supplies some of the best, such as Craftsteak and BLT Prime. Now you can buy a steak that is “exactly, absolutely” the same, says DeBragga’s Marc Sarrazin. Other top meat operations, like elite-meat specialist Pat LaFrieda, and small-farm evangelist Heritage Food USA, have made their stuff available to the public as well. So the question is this: Is it worth it?
The Latest Haute Heritage Meat: ChickenHeritage Foods USA recently announced the arrival of a chicken so pure and primitive, so unspoiled by modern industrial breeding, that it has “even retained [its] fighting look” from its days as a battling Javanese bird. The price of the Indian Game Chicken is fierce, too: $68 for two three-and-a-half pounders. Apparently, the first batch of birds sold out in two days, and the company reports that some of the city’s top chefs have come calling, including those from the Batali group, the Craft restaurants, and the Cleaver Catering Company.