Too often taken for granted, sauce is the stuff that makes a meal complete, and the flavors available across the five boroughs right now are as bright, bold, and varied as ever. I know this because I’ve spent the past weeks scouring every truck, stand, shop, and bar I could find on the theory that the most vibrant sauce doesn’t come from a copper pot in a high-end kitchen; it’s more likely to be served in a cup in Bay Ridge. I was right, of course, as the list below proves. This isn’t intended to be an exhaustive guide to the best sauce in the city; instead these are my current favorites, the vinaigrette, toum, salsa, and mustard that made me immediately take notice of whatever it is they’d been drizzled over.
DeKalb Market Hall, Downtown Brooklyn
Salty tomato salsa with immediate heat — you’ll want to take a break between bites to catch your breath.
50 W. 22nd St.
It’s got the membrane-burning intensity of something imported from Dijon, but it’s prepared on-site. Spread it generously over the warm bitterballen.
multiple locations
A rich, thick sauce that stands up to rough-barked jerk chicken.
312 Grand St., Williamsburg
Inspired by Chinese hot mustard with a forceful blast of heat.
723 Fulton St., Fort Greene
A citrusy mix of fish sauce, sugar, garlic, and Thai chile for soaking into the flakes of crisp, fried whole branzino.
145 West St., Greenpoint
Smoky, sweet, sour, and sold in handy squeeze bottles so you can squirt it on a salad at home.
Multiple locations
It lends ultraconcentrated umami to frisée-and-endive salad, despite the surprisingly light coating.
Multiple locations
This is like the ultimate white sauce, with lots of vinegar tang and loads of black pepper: exactly right for a roast-pork sandwich.
DeKalb Market Hall, Downtown Brooklyn
Salty tomato salsa with immediate heat — you’ll want to take a break between bites to catch your breath.
50 W. 22nd St.
It’s got the membrane-burning intensity of something imported from Dijon, but it’s prepared on-site. Spread it generously over the warm bitterballen.
multiple locations
A rich, thick sauce that stands up to rough-barked jerk chicken.
312 Grand St., Williamsburg
Inspired by Chinese hot mustard with a forceful blast of heat.
723 Fulton St., Fort Greene
A citrusy mix of fish sauce, sugar, garlic, and Thai chile for soaking into the flakes of crisp, fried whole branzino.
145 West St., Greenpoint
Smoky, sweet, sour, and sold in handy squeeze bottles so you can squirt it on a salad at home.
Multiple locations
It lends ultraconcentrated umami to frisée-and-endive salad, despite the surprisingly light coating.
Multiple locations
This is like the ultimate white sauce, with lots of vinegar tang and loads of black pepper: exactly right for a roast-pork sandwich.
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