the year i ate new york

Pretending to Vacation in Bushwick

Reliving my early 20s before Labor Day arrives.

Photo: Grub Street
Photo: Grub Street

A running list of everywhere Iโ€™ve been, week 32: 315.ย Krispy Pizzaย 316.ย Panchitaโ€™s Placeย 317.ย Faroย 318.ย Palmettoย 319.ย Empanada Cityย 320.ย Taqueria Al Pastorย 321.ย Elsewhereย 322.ย Robertaโ€™sย 323.ย Opsย 324.ย Carmeloโ€™sย 325.ย Tortilleria Mexicana Los Hermanosย 326.ย Brooklyn Beer Gardenย 327.ย Leslieโ€™s Kitchenย 328.ย 101 Wilson Barย 329.ย Circoโ€™s Pastryย 330.ย Dweebsย 331.ย Bushniwaย 332.ย La Cantineย 333.ย Mayaโ€™s Snack Barย 334.ย Lโ€™imprimerie

Bushwick is like amusement-park Brooklyn. Dive bars, unregulated loft apartments, natural wine, vintage clothing stores, nightclubs, cafรฉs, and late-night taco stalls all make it one of the more compelling neighborhoods for going out in the borough.

At some point โ€” beforeย Girlsย โ€” it was supposedly cheap to live there, too, but 2022 Bushwick is pretty bougie, even if it doesnโ€™t yet have its own Whole Foods. Oddly, though, spend a bit of time there during a weekday and it may seem as if nobody in Bushwick works at all (even if many of them actually work service jobs at night). With all those people around, Bushwick boasts an unparalleled number of excellent daytime cafรฉs.

All of this means that Bushwick, sunup or sundown, can be a pretty nice place to hang out. Whenever Iโ€™m there, it reminds me of my early 20s, when I had a higher tolerance for late-night subway rides and Uber Pools. Either way, with Labor Day approaching, it seemed like an excellent spot to spend some time for something like a makeshift summer break in Brooklyn. I figured a trip back in time to a more carefree point in my life would be more restorative than any to a city beach.

Which is how I found myself in line atย Elsewhere, a multi-zone venue on the edge of Bushwick that borders East Williamsburg and Ridgewood. My friends and I were there for Papi Juice, a queer POC dance night with different DJs playing for the various bars inside. There was a taco truck in the outdoor smoking area, but we didnโ€™t partake; the line was long, and Iโ€™d already stopped byย Taqueria Al Pastorย around midnight for the pregame at my friendโ€™s house. I had also fortified myself with an agua de Jamaica while I waited, knowing the hydration would pay dividends later on the dance floor.

Elsewhere. Photo: Tammie Teclemariam

In fact, there was a lot of Mexican food over the course of the week. Itโ€™s impossible to resist when there are multiple options on nearly every block. The following night, after a couple of rounds atย Carmeloโ€™s, a different group of friends and I planned to end the night atย Tortilleria Mexicana Los Hermanos, which lets you BYOB in their connected dining area, until the woman behind the counter said we could also take our food to the beer garden next door, creatively named โ€ฆย Brooklyn Beer Garden.

We sat down at a table in the back corner trying to distance ourselves from the porta-potties. The wall behind us was spray-painted with โ€œRust in Peace Brooklynโ€ โ€”ย whatever that means โ€” and a group in the next section was playing literal beer pong. My friend bought me a $9 canned beer and let me know he was not impressed, but our tacos were good and nobody bothered us except for some security guards telling bad jokes. Still, this place somehow felt like a tourist trap.

Pizza at Robertaโ€™s. Photo: Tammie Teclemariam

Speaking of tourists, if youโ€™re going to pretend to vacation in Bushwick, pizza will happen, and โ€” as became clear on a Saturday afternoon โ€”ย Robertaโ€™sย is still very popular with out-of-towners. We sat next to some German guys who didnโ€™t even order drinks, but our attention was mostly occupied by a round table in the corner with five similarly aged women and one guy. Behind us, some people were dining with what seemed like their older parents, with the gentleman sporting black-painted nails that clashed with the rest of his outfit.

There are almost a shocking number of bars open at 2 p.m. on a Monday afternoon, and even though I was going for vacation vibes, I opted for iced tea and a club sandwich atย La Cantine, which someone had described to me as โ€œthe place where European tourists go for lunch.โ€

The majority of tables inside and outside were occupied, though everybody was dressed as if they lived within a couple of blocks of that corner. Besides two women with ciabatta sandwiches working on laptops, there were a lot of young people just hanging out with their dogs and chatting with a friend. My sandwich took almost 20 minutes to come out, so clearly people donโ€™t come here in a rush, but all the components were well done and you could tell it was all freshly made on site, so I can see why La Cantine is the spot.

From there, I walked about 20 minutes over toย Lโ€™imprimerie, stopping for a scoop of sorbet at the brightly coloredย Mayaโ€™s Snack Barย across from a Food Bazaar on the way. At the bakery, I ordered a hibiscus iced tea like the guy in front of me and drank it at one of the outdoor tables decorated with large potted plants underneath the bridge. I was starting to get lost in the urban-tropical view until a train rolled past above me and precipitated a mysterious mixture of water droplets and particulate debris on both my tea and me. A summer shower, maybe, along with a little bit of terroir for my drink.

Mayaโ€™s Snack Bar. Photo: Tammie Teclemariam

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Pretending to Vacation in Bushwick