For luncheonette and diner habitués, the BLT is a year-round concern, about as seasonal as a side of home fries. But a certain subset of Greenmarket-going chefs (and eaters) insists the sandwich should only make its annual appearance when local tomatoes reach their peak. This philosophy is so ingrained at Danny Meyer’s Gramercy café, Daily Provisions, that bacon is demoted from top billing to optional add-on. And that’s not the only way the LT breaks with convention: The bread is crusty ciabatta instead of toasted white. Baby watercress replaces crunchy iceberg. And the star ingredient is peeled and marinated pre-assembly, a technique devised to solve a culinary mystery executive sous-chef Donovan Tian describes thusly: “How do you make tomatoes taste more like tomatoes than before?”
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On the menu at Daily Provisions; $12; 103 E. 19th St., nr. Park Ave. S.; 212-488-1505
*This article appears in the August 19, 2019, issue of New York Magazine. Subscribe Now!