If you’ve never seen struncatura on a menu in this Italian-food-crazed town nor even heard of it, blame it on the name. The ancient cucina povera specialty of Calabria is typically a long, flat, multigrain pasta that comes with anchovy, garlic, chiles, bread crumbs, and a not-so-lip-smacking backstory. Translated from the Calabrese dialect, struncatura means “scraps” or “crumblings” or “sawdust” and, in this case, refers to the floor sweepings of the grain miller’s shop, which frugal cooks turned into a rough-and-ready pasta served with a piquant sauce designed to mask the noodle’s shortcomings. The good news is that although chef Jordan Frosolone of the new Seaport District branch of Milanese restaurant 10 Corso Como toasts farro and mills his own rye flour to make his struncatura, he is no stickler for absolute authenticity: Anything that falls onto his kitchen floor goes straight into the trash bin.
Mouse over or tap the image to read more.
On the menu at 10 Corso Como; $20; 200 Front St., at Beekman St.; 212-265-9500.
*This article appears in the January 21, 2019, issue of New York Magazine. Subscribe Now!