When is terrine of foie gras not terrine of foie gras? When it’s molded to resemble the Swiss cheese Tête de Moine, twice frozen, power-drilled down its center in order to fit onto the rustic cheese-slicing gizmo called a girolle, and shaved into dozens of razor-thin petals to form what looks like a maitake mushroom or maybe an elaborate beige bow. This is how it’s done at the Pool, Rich Torrisi’s seafood redo of The Four Seasons’ Pool Room. Initially, he thought it was too precious and showy for his light, streamlined menu, but he and chef de cuisine Joe Cash came up with a suitable presentation: on a frozen glass cube meant to be passed around the table, the foie spread onto orange “chips” and generally devoured with the kind of merry gusto reserved for a bag of Ruffles and a tub of French onion dip.
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On the menu at the Pool; $32; 99 E. 52nd St., nr. Park Ave.; 212-375-9001.
*This article appears in the September 18, 2017, issue of New York Magazine.