the dish

Could Sunchokes Be Your Next Vegetable Obsession?

As wonderful and sexy as vegetables are now considered to be by the food cognoscenti, some are harder sells than others. Take, for instance, the sunchoke, a.k.a. Jerusalem artichoke. Gnarled and knotty and not much to look at, sunchokes possess a side effect that, despite their delicate flavor, has earned them a nickname not likely to be adopted by the Society for the Appreciation of Sunchokes: that would be the fartichoke. Sometimes, though, all it takes to change public perception of a foodstuff is one slam-dunk recipe, like Hemlock chef Diego Moya’s roasted and raw sunchokes with kumquat curd — a superb little study of contrasting textures and complementary flavors. Kumquat curd, it seems, could do for sunchokes what David Chang’s fish-sauce vinaigrette did for Brussels sprouts.

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On the menu at Hemlock; $14; 65 Rivington St., nr. Allen St.; 646-649-2503

*This article appears in the May 29, 2017, issue of New York Magazine.

Could Sunchokes Be Your Next Vegetable Obsession?