There is no potpie in Peruvian cooking, but there is ají de gallina — shredded chicken stewed in a lip-smacking sauce made from garlic, cream, onions, walnuts, Parmesan, bread, and the medium-heat ají amarillo (yellow chile) native to Peru. When you think about that dish and also potpie, as Llama Inn’s Erik Ramirez has been doing, a lightbulb goes off in your head informing your taste buds that were you to substitute ají de gallina for regular chicken-potpie filling, you’d really have something. Ramirez takes it a step further, swapping out chicken for rabbit, and garnishing the dish with an amuse-bouche of chard-wrapped rabbit sausage, and what you might call a rabbit-liver-mousse sandwich cookie.
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On the menu at Llama Inn; $24; 50 Withers St., nr. Lorimer St., Williamsburg;718-387-3434
*This article appears in the January 23, 2017, issue of New York Magazine.