One of 2016’s earliest restaurant casualties was the East Village’s Northern Spy Food Co., one of the farm-to-table pioneers. Chef Pete Lipson led the charge for two years before it sadly closed in February, and, fortunately, he has now found a home at All Hands, a new, seafood-centric Williamsburg restaurant. (No relation to Two Hands, though it’s probably time to name restaurants after a different body part. Four Noses? Left Eye?)
Lipson’s menu is as familiar and comforting as it is ambitious: He pairs house-made ricotta with Navajo fry bread, tuna pastrami with trout roe and buckwheat blini, and mussels on toast with beef béarnaise. (Sadly, Northern Spy’s pork sticky rolls do not make an appearance.)
The space is special, too — it takes up two floors of a standalone 19th-century warehouse. One of the co-owners, Craig Shillitto, is a restaurant designer who worked on Loring Place and Lilia, and he’s outfitted the 120-seat space with nautical details. Take a look:
Menu [PDF]
All Hands, 29 Dunham Place, 718-963-0078