The star of the menu at this, the latest project from the Mexican-street-food obsessive Dario Wolos and executive chef Jason DeBriere, is the panucho, which you might consider the Yucatecan precursor to the Hot Pocket. To whip up a panucho Tacombi-style, a housemade tortilla is puffed on the griddle, gently split, filled with a mash of Rancho Gordo beans, crisp-fried, then topped with slow-roasted pork, tomato, and pickled onion. Another highlight sure to pique the interest of antojitos aficionados is the salbute — like a puffier, unstuffed panucho, topped with pollo asado and all the fixings. Rounding things out are tacos, plus snacky starters like esquites, sopa de lima, and, of course, guacamole with housemade totopos (otherwise known as tortilla chips).
255 Bleecker St. at Cornelia St.; 917-727-0179
*This article appears in the October 19, 2015 issue of New York Magazine.