The word chicharrón has evolved from strictly denoting fried pork rinds to a term that more generally evokes that food’s crispy texture. Case in point: chicharrón de queso, the lacy shards of baked cheese that Marc Meyer serves as a snack at his new East Village restaurant Rosie’s. A student of Mexican cuisine, Meyer encountered a dish with the same name but different composition in Mexico City, where cooks melted soft Chihuahua cheese and rolled it up on a tortilla with strips of pepper. His hybrid riff is less taco and more frico, the signature cheese crisp of Friuli, Italy. It’s the ideal vehicle for salsa macha, an oily sauce perfumed with chiles and fortified with nuts and seeds.
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On the menu at Rosie’s, $8; 29 E. 2nd St., at Second Ave.; 212-335-0114.
Photo: Bobby Doherty/New York Magazine
*This article appears in the June 29, 2015 issue of New York Magazine.