Openings

What to Eat at Insta-Hit Mu Ramen, Which Offers a Lot More Than Just Noodles

Spicy miso: red miso-and-pork-based soup topped with scallion, ground pork, menma, corn, sesame, and chili oil.
Spicy miso: red miso-and-pork-based soup topped with scallion, ground pork, menma, corn, sesame, and chili oil. Photo: Melissa Hom

It was a little over a year ago that Per Se alum Joshua Smookler and his wife, Heidy He, started serving late-night ramen inside a Long Island City bagel shop. A glowing endorsement from Pete Wells gave Smookler and He the boost they needed to shut down the pop-up in favor of a brick-and-mortar restaurant, which opened at the beginning of December.

This past week, New Yorkers have crossed boroughs and waited hours to try Smookler’s menu, which includes deep-fried chicken wings stuffed with foie gras, an excellent okonomiyaki with smoked trout, and, of course, four types of ramen. And now, Mu Ramen has amended its no-reservations policy in favor of accepting same-day reservations for up to four guests (phone lines open at 3 p.m.), so the experience can be stress-free.

U & I: uni, spicy maguro, sushi rice, sesame, roasted nori, and wasabi. Sometimes,
U & I: uni, spicy maguro, sushi rice, sesame, roasted nori, and wasabi. Sometimes, Photo: Melissa Hom
Shirako Tempura: Alaskan cod milt tempura with spicy fermented-bean dipping sauce.
Shirako Tempura: Alaskan cod milt tempura with spicy fermented-bean dipping sauce. Photo: Melissa Hom
Mu Ramen: oxtail-and-bone-marrow-based soup, brisket, half sour pickle, menma, and cabbage.
Mu Ramen: oxtail-and-bone-marrow-based soup, brisket, half sour pickle, menma, and cabbage. Photo: Melissa Hom
Tebaski Gyoza: deep-fried chicken wings stuffed with foie gras and brioche.
Tebaski Gyoza: deep-fried chicken wings stuffed with foie gras and brioche. Photo: Melissa Hom
It's a handsome space.
It’s a handsome space. Photo: Melissa Hom

Mu Ramen, 1209 Jackson Ave., Queens, 917-868-8903

Earlier: Long Island’s Other Jewish Ramen Savant Explains How Mu Ramen Came To Be

What to Eat at Mu Ramen