The Other Critics

Gold Executes a ‘Best of’ Mexican Restaurants List; Rodell Gives Vegetarians the Bird

Jonathan Gold returns to the last millenium by invoking El Parian in his latest “best of” Mexican list. Anachronistic birria is superbly apropos as Forever 21 seems to be stocking nothing but sporting neons on its shelves this month. We’re simply not able to find more positive words for the aging El Parian, so it’s best to simply list the 14 restaurants as currated by JG: Babita, Border Grill, Cemitas Poblanas Elvirita, Chichen Itza, Coni’Seafood, El Borrego As de Oro, El Huarache Azteca, El Parian, Guisados, La Casita Mexicana, Loteria Grill, Corazon y Miel, Bizarra Capital. This is the second time in three days the Pulitzer winner has written about tacos. Could this mean Mr. Gold will be returning monthly noodle coverage of the SGV? [LAT]

It’s good news all around for restaurants in SoCal this week as Brad A Johnson finds a charming gem in an Orange County strip mall. Chef Daniel Hyatt is so good that Johnson is even impressed by kale salad. It’s easy to praise the lard, but nobody praises kale salad, nobody. The fact the dessert program is powered by a heavy dose of nepotism – the pastry chef is the co-owner’s daughter – doesn’t even phase Johnson and he even finds the wine program at Juliette admirable. Will continued positive reviews from the OC be enough to attract Angelenos down to Newport Beach? It’s a question the Irvine Co. desperately wants an answer to. [OCR]

In the sophomore effort to her review of Bludso’s, LA Weekly’s BRod drops a massive funny and produces the pithiest critical piece of the year. She simply tells vegetarians to not visit Bludso’s and we’re thankful Bludso’s Bar and Queue is able to provide such good fodder for the still-fresh critic at the alt-weekly. [LAW]

Gold Executes a ‘Best of’ Mexican Restaurants List; Rodell Gives Vegetarians the