The Other Critics

Michael Bauer Finds a Few Things He Likes at Hi-Lo

The dining room at Hi-Lo, which Bauer thinks might not be dilapidated enough to be home to good barbecue.
The dining room at Hi-Lo, which Bauer thinks might not be dilapidated enough to be home to good barbecue. Photo: Grub Street

Following on Patty Unterman’s glowing praise for Hi-Lo BBQ comes Michael Bauer’s somewhat more dissatisfied review in Sunday’s paper. He was very happy with the St. Louis-style ribs and Texas-style brisket on his first visit, but found the meat not so consistently good on his returns. He loves the pull-apart rolls, and the “appropriately messy” meatloaf sandwich, but dislikes the salads and the pickles and calls an Andouille gumbo “a travesty.” Also, unlike Patty, he finds the service not that great. All told: two stars. [Chron]

Michael Bauer Finds a Few Things He Likes at Hi-Lo