The Other Critics

Cheu’s Noodles Are ‘Interesting,’ But Everything Else Is ‘More Compelling’; Fork’s Eli Kulp ‘Can Cook, No Doubt’

• Jason Sheehan delivers the first word on Cheu Noodle Bar’s “good,” fresh,” and “interesting” noodles, but finds “that everything else on the menu is so much more compelling.” The pork belly in the buns “literally melts the minute you bite it;” and “the scrapple is just plain amazing — like a tiny pork grenade.” He advises using a spare set of chopsticks “to eye-poke anyone who makes a move on your bowl” of dumplings. [Foobooz]

• The small selection of starters, like the “letter-perfect escarole/apple salad with a surprising rye personality from a warm speck-and-raisin dressing,” at Eraserhood pizzeria Bufad “showed promise” for Adam Erace. Unfortunately, the pizzas didn’t. Though the pies have “wonderful crusts, chewy and light with an ashy black perimeter that tastes like winter in New York,” the toppings don’t do them justice. [Citypaper]

• Trey Popp posits that in this “era of absentee owner” Fork’s Ellen Yin “embodies the old-school notion that nothing breeds excellence like undivided attention.” He adds that the recent chef change has “paid off,” verifying very matter-of-factly that Eli Kulp “can cook, no doubt.” [Phillymag]

Cheu’s Noodles Are ‘Interesting,’ But Everything Else Is