The Other Critics

Roth Finds ‘Nothing Redeeming’ at Stock in Trade; the Guardian Rounds Up Great Carnitas

Stock in Trade
Stock in Trade Photo: Andrei Riskin/Grub Street

This week finds Anna Roth writing her first all-out slam of a review in her eight-month tenure at the Weekly, and it’s a review of Stock in Trade in the Marina. She writes that, “There is nothing redeeming about the food at the Marina’s new Stock in Trade, where chef Jake Kwan-Rosenbush has supercharged every dish with high-fat ingredients without discernible purpose.” And she’s a little baffled, too, because respected former Wood Tavern chef Maximilian DiMare was brought in to consult on the menu. She encounters some “ghastly duck confit,” some “frisee that looked and tasted as though it had come out of a bag,” and some equally terrible macaroni and cheese, of all things. Nor is she a fan of the breakfast poutine at brunch. She adds that the atmosphere at night is pretty awful too: “Now, imagine all this in a place that feels like an Ibiza nightclub, the music turned up so loud you can feel the bass thumping through your chair.” Anna’s not having a great month, it sounds like, food-wise, after her mostly negative take on Caña last week, and such is the life of a food critic sometimes. [SF Weekly]

And over at the Guardian, things are a little more positive. Virginia Miller has departed, but they’ve got guest columnist Tom Temprano, who also goes by DJ Carnita, reviewing his favorite carnitas around town. Like we did on our taco tour last year, he loves carnitas at the El Gallo Giro truck at 23rd and Treat. He also calls out La Palma Mexicatessen, Gordo in the Sunset, Taqueria San Jose (where he notes, “every Friday the place is full of cute nerds playing Magic: The Gathering.”), and the “bourgeois” carnitas at Nopalito. [SFBG]

Roth Finds ‘Nothing Redeeming’ at Stock in Trade; the