The Other Critics

Bauer Likes Hillside Supper Club, But It Needs Editing; Kauffman Adores b. patisserie

Hillside Supper Club
Hillside Supper Club Photo: Grub Street

Michael Bauer devoted his Sunday review to the small new Bernal Heights spot Hillside Supper Club, which just opened in January. He says that young co-chefs Tony Ferrari and Jonathan Sutton “clearly have vision and talent, but could use an editor,” and mentions a few dishes with extra elements they could do without — like pickled pomegranate seeds on an otherwise delicious lamb sugo, and a sous-vide egg on a dish of lima beans with chorizo. The menu is a bit “all over the place,” and Bauer notes that a Margherita pizza was on there initially as if the chefs were “trying to hedge their bets and be all things to many people.” But he loves the duck liver mousse, the “homey” Nonna’s meatballs, and he praises a dish of seared sturgeon (something we loved as well) with smoked potatoes, radishes, and gribiche sauce. The wine list could use some help, but in the end he gives them two stars, and says the place already has a lively, private club-like vibe. [Chron]

Over at Tasting Table, Jonathan Kauffman just submitted a review of the newly open b. patisserie in Lower Pac Heights. He says that chef Belinda Leong is a “master of air” with her perfect kouign ammans and perfectly light vanilla cake. And despite the fact that you’ll probably “see the bakers in the open kitchen wielding X-Acto knives and rulers as often as they do pastry bags,” “the place feels precise rather than precious.” He also recommends our early favorite item at the place, the domed chocolate-caramel-toffee mousse covered in a beautiful, glossy layer of chocolate. [Tasting Table]

Bauer Likes Hillside Supper Club, But It Needs Editing; Kauffman Adores b.