Sure, bread is great and all, but is it a cause to get excited about? Rarely. But take a quick peek at the leavened wonders that Fork’s Eli Kulp recently added to the restaurant’s “House Menu” and “Whole Animal” prix fixe options just may change that outlook. In collaboration with his pastry chef Jonathan Saliba and head baker Sam Kincaid, Kulp has developed a handful of unorthodox breads, and equally offbeat butters that are now being served as their own course with both fixed-price menus. New breads include a beet volkornbrot, a pumpernickel rye sourdough with sunflower seeds, dehydrated roasted beets and soaked rye berries with smoked beet butter; squid ink sponge bread, a naturally fermented black bread served with toasted seaweed butter; and — you may want to sit down for this — a dry-aged beef brioche, made with butter and beef fat that comes with carrot and salted butter.
Fork’s new bread options. Photo: Jason Varney