Trendlet: The Forgotten Danish Stages a Comeback
If you’re like most people—even most food-obsessed people—you probably don’t spend a lot of time, or rather any time at all, thinking about Danish. In spite of their ubiquity, you may not even know precisely what a Danish is: basically reconfigured and gussied-up croissant dough bolstered with milk, eggs, and even more butter. The only problem is that in this town, Danish aren’t what they used to be. (In the early 1900s, when one L. C. Klitteng opened the Danish Culinary Studio on lower Fifth Avenue, the pastries were about as popular in New York as Magnolia Bakery cupcakes are now.) Which is why today’s foodies do not make bucket lists of bakeries that specialize in Danish. Nor do they argue about who makes the best the way they do about pizza and pork buns and doughnuts. The good news is that it’s starting to seem like maybe they should. Our town’s artisanal bakers, you see, have been busy giving the Danish a gourmet upgrade, and the time for a full-fledged Danish renaissance has arrived. Here, a look at nine newcomers over which you can begin bickering now.
*This article originally appeared in the April 1, 2013 issue of New York Magazine.
What makes Denmark-trained Uri Scheft’s Danish so infernally good is the surprise filling of the marzipan-butter paste known among aficionados as remo...
What makes Denmark-trained Uri Scheft’s Danish so infernally good is the surprise filling of the marzipan-butter paste known among aficionados as remonce. $3.25; 18 E. 16th St., nr. Union Sq. W.; 212-633-2253. (See the Listing)
The Leske’s name isn’t new, but the old Bay Ridge Scandinavian pastry shop closed in 2011 only to be resurrected the following year by two fans from t...
The Leske’s name isn’t new, but the old Bay Ridge Scandinavian pastry shop closed in 2011 only to be resurrected the following year by two fans from the hood. They recently branched out to Park Slope, original Danish recipe in tow. $2.05; 588 Fifth Ave., nr. Prospect Ave., Park Slope; 718-369-0404.
Peter Endriss’s new-wave definition of a cheese Danish allows for Hawthorne Valley Farm quark and another New York State fromage called Kuyahoora, plu...
Peter Endriss’s new-wave definition of a cheese Danish allows for Hawthorne Valley Farm quark and another New York State fromage called Kuyahoora, plus, of course, local eggs. $3; 285 Third Ave., nr. Carroll St., Gowanus; 718-576-3360. (See the Listing)
François Danielo bakes these beauties twice daily in the proper Viennoiserie style so they’re always fresh. $2.85. 109-01 72nd Rd., Forest Hill...
François Danielo bakes these beauties twice daily in the proper Viennoiserie style so they’re always fresh. $2.85. 109-01 72nd Rd., Forest Hills; 347-644-5606.
According to the man behind the breakfast counter, these little guys are endorsed by the Queen of Denmark. $2, or two for $3; 13 Laight St., nr. Sixth...
According to the man behind the breakfast counter, these little guys are endorsed by the Queen of Denmark. $2, or two for $3; 13 Laight St., nr. Sixth Ave.; 212-925-1313. (See the Listing)
The brand-new large-format restaurant dabbles in dough during the day, offering breakfast pastries including this standout specimen glazed with maple ...
The brand-new large-format restaurant dabbles in dough during the day, offering breakfast pastries including this standout specimen glazed with maple butter and topped with candied walnuts. $2.75; 102 Third Ave., nr. 13th St.; 212-529-8880.
The secret to this superrich Danish, as with many of life’s pleasures, is long fermentation and good butter. As maple-yam season comes to a close, loo...
The secret to this superrich Danish, as with many of life’s pleasures, is long fermentation and good butter. As maple-yam season comes to a close, look for a black-currant-pastry-cream replacement. $4; 35 Christopher St., nr. Waverly Pl.; 646-590-3341.
As light and airy as a croissant but as satisfying as a box of jelly doughnuts. $2.85; 109-01 72nd Rd., Forest Hills; 347-644-5606.
The inspiration for the shape of this sweet and tangy Danish was Entenmann’s; the rest came from the highly evolved pastry minds of the mom-and-pop co...
The inspiration for the shape of this sweet and tangy Danish was Entenmann’s; the rest came from the highly evolved pastry minds of the mom-and-pop co-chefs. Weekends only. $2.95 per slice; 365 Fifth Ave., nr. 5th St., Park Slope; 347-227-8953.