Eric Asimov penned an amusing bit in the Times this week about how the “faddish dismissal” of Bordeaux among the American wine cognoscenti — deeming it overpriced and only worthy of douchebags — has begun to turn. Ironically, the grandaddy of big wines, from perhaps the most established wine-growing region in the world, has taken on the role of unsung underdog among American sommeliers after a decade of being largely ignored by everyone but Richard Parker. If you were cool, you didn’t recommend Bordeaux. It’s been all about Barbaresco, Riesling, obscure Italian or Eastern-European varietals, or even Burgundy, along with lots of talk of acidity and food-friendliness. Asian buyers and collectors may have driven up the price of premier-cru vintages to record highs, but the chateaux finally realized in the last year or two that they’d lost a lot of love from wine professionals and importers, prompting them to launch an unheard-of PR effort. The result: Sommeliers are rediscovering some of the more moderately priced labels and putting them back on lists, and wine writer and sommelier Richard Betts is even producing wines in conjunction with a Bordeaux estate that clock in under $35. They named it Saint Glinglin — a fictional saint of French idiom whose name basically means “when pigs fly.” [NYT]
This little piggy goes oui oui oui.