The Other Critics

Citron and Rose Has Three Bell Potential; ‘Elaborate Accessorizing’ Justifies the Cost of Vernick’s Toasts

• Craig LaBan gave Citron and Rose two bells, but says that owners Michael Solomonov and Steven Cook have “succeeded” in delivering “a great glatt kosher restaurant,” which has the potential to rise to three bells status “by year’s end.” Things like the “flaky” poppy-speckled and smoked mushroom stuffed knish and the “object of pure grill-lust” that was the two-pound “mega-rib-eye” for two, turned out well. But a dry escabeche of mackerel, and an “extremely overcooked” were “far less successful.” [Inquirer]

• Adam Erace says the toasts at Vernick “make fabulous finger-foods,” “provide a crunchy, smoky, subtly tangy backdrop to all sorts of ingredients,” and “their considerable size and elaborate accessorizing more than justifies the cost.” Aside from toast, the “ethereal” potato ravioli with the “succulent braised lamb neck lining” are as “fine as any Vetri chef.” “Overcooked” fish in the shellfish roast for two came as “a small blemish on this beautiful meal.” [Courier-Post]

Citron and Rose Has Three Bell Potential; ‘Elaborate Accessorizing’