Okay, sometimes you have a name and you gotta work with it. So Stetson’s Chop House and Bar, in the Hyatt Regency Chicago on Wacker Drive, delivered what it sounded like— steak, meaty enough for guys in cowboy hats. But times change, businessmen eat lighter and more eclectically… and the hotel’s gotten a $168 million renovation, including reconcepting Stetson’s. So now you’re Stetson’s Modern Steak + Sushi, and the new ultramodern decor is way chicer than the old west, with its marble walls and fireplaces. But what are we getting so hung up on here? This is the largest hotel in Chicago, the largest Hyatt property in the world, and it’s the gorgeous-looking lead restaurant in a property with 140 cooks. They can call themselves anything they want. And it’s a triumph for Austrian-born Executive Chef Robert Lang, who got his start with Hyatt as a sous chef here 30 years ago, has worked for the hotel company all around the world and is now commander of all he surveys at their flagship property. Check out the new menus for the restaurant and the lounges below.