The Other Critics

‘Complexity Shines’ at Khmer Kitchen; Ants Pants Serves ‘Ever-Satisfying’ Brussels Sprouts

• Craig LaBan checks out the “authentic Cambodian flavors” at South Philly’s Khmer Kitchen, and reports back that the “vibrant fare” is both legit, and “more elegant” than what’s on offer at many American Thai restaurants. “Complexity shines” in the soups; the pineapple one with rib tips, he writes, “did somersaults on the tongue.” A spicy bowl of phrah-hok katheeth is “simply the most exotic bowl of chili” he’s ever eaten. The grilled beef sak-koe ang “was overcooked,” but a splash of the tuhk prohok sauce, “redeemed all.” [Inquirer]

• Two Eat Philly does dinner at G-Ho’s Ants Pants Cafe, where Thai sweet chili sauce turns sweet potato fries into a “surprise hit,” and the addition of shallots and Pecorino makes sauteed Brussels sprouts an “ever-satisfying vegetable dish.” With the maple component largely missing from a maple bacon and egg sandwich, it was a “little boring.” A pancetta BLT was overwhelmed by the pancetta, making it “not too enjoyable.” [Two Eat Philly]

‘Complexity Shines’ at Khmer Kitchen; Ants Pants Serves