The Other Critics

Miller Gushes About Capo’s; the EBX Likes the Heavy Pours at Berkeley’s Bartavelle

Photo: Andrei Riskin/Grub Street

This week Virginia Miller gives us her adoring thoughts on Capo’s (641 Vallejo Street), Tony Gemignani’s newly open Chicago-style pizzeria in North Beach. She’s in love, first of all, with the red leather booths and Prohibition-era decor, and the “dreamy” house Calabrese sausage with peppers, onions, and a light tomato cream sauce. She calls the mostaccioli “a beaut” of a dish, and she says you “can’t go wrong” with any of the pizzas, especially the deep dish, order-ahead Quattro Forni (done in all four of the on-premise ovens), and the thin-crust Italian Stallion topped with thin-shaved Italian beef and horseradish cream and “sweet-hot” peppers. [SFBG, Roth’s Earlier take]

And over in Berkeley, the East Bay Express’s Cynthia Salaysay gives us a review of Bartavelle (1603 San Pablo Avenue), the new wine bar and café that replaced the venerable Café Fanny last year. She loves the deviled eggs topped with perfectly soft anchovies; the earthy breakfast porridge with red quinoa, amaranth, and flaxseeds; and the “stylish” Saveur photo-worthy meat boards like one with smoked trout and white bean purée. Also, she’s a fan of the generous pours and friendly wine service, with a selection of glasses by small French and Italian producers courtesy of next-door Kermit Lynch. [EBX]

Miller Gushes About Capo’s; the EBX Likes the Heavy Pours at