The Other Critics

Josh Sens Says Siegel’s Food at Michael Mina Is ‘Lighter and Brighter’; Bauer Says Murray Circle Still Inconsistent

Michael Mina
Michael Mina

San Francisco Magazine’s Josh Sens says that the expense-account and business-traveler-friendly Michael Mina still “isn’t entirely [his] kind of restaurant,” however he finds that the cooking Ron Siegel is now doing as executive chef is “more subtle and appealing” than what he had when the restaurant reopened on California Street in 2010 (when, he says, “the tried-and-true verged on tired”). He says “many of the dishes are now lighter and brighter,” like Siegel’s quali preparation, which is dressed simply in its own jus and served with compressed apples, carrots, and shiso. He also loves the double-decker fish dish, with the crab and rice underneath, which we previously mentioned. All told: three stars, up from two and a half. [SF Mag, Earlier slideshow]

Michael Bauer returns for an update at Murray Circle, the restaurant at Cavallo Point in Sausalito. He finds things, as before, a bit inconsistent with a few service issues. He notes that the hostess picked up the phone just as he was approaching the host stand, and generally “timing was off and communication between [the staff] seemed to be lax.” He loves a duck dish with a perfectly seared breast and duck liver meatballs, but he’s disappointed by a “muted” bouillabaisse, and an oversmoked pork shank. In the end, the restaurant retains its two and a half stars. [Chron, His earlier 2011 update]

Josh Sens Says Siegel’s Food at Michael Mina Is ‘Lighter and