The Other Critics

Gold Charmed By Storefront’s Cutting Edge Deli Sandwiches

Storefront's roast beef sandwich
Storefront’s roast beef sandwich Photo: Storefront

Everyone’s talking about Los Feliz’s Storefront these days, raving about this modern deli from the Salt’s Cure team that makes everything from scratch. Today, Jonathan Gold weighs in with a review, positioning the BLT, “at the heart of one of the strongest culinary movements in the country at the moment: the radical reinvention of everyday dishes by deconstructing them and rebuilding them to the tiniest detail,” the house-cured bacon providing “a Hendrix fuzztone translated into meat.”

Handing out props to the burger (which “splits the difference between the drive-through on the corner and Umamiburger across the street,” though AHT was quick to call it “over-hyped”), the corned beef, and “The Mousa” sub sandwich, Gold credits Zak Walters and Chris Phelps for their ambition and grit. “Like a skateboarder who practices jumping a particular curb 600 times, just because it is there, [the chefs] seem to set almost random goals for themselves just to see if they can achieve them.” Their corned beef may not dethrone Langer’s pastrami, but the critic does label it “a formidable effort.”

Counter Intelligence: Storefront Deli in Los Feliz [LAT]

Gold Charmed By Storefront’s Cutting Edge Deli Sandwiches