The Other Critics

‘Spot-On’ Yanako Plays Things ‘a Shade to Safe’; Bun Bo Hue a ‘Big Bowl of Steaming Hot Goodness’ at Mekong River

• Craig LaBan makes the case for “standard but spot-on” Yanako being “a worthy addition to Manayunk,” but he laments the fact that “more than capable” chef Agus Lukito plays the sushi and authentic Thai standards “a shade too safe.” [Inquirer]

• Adam Erace came to Pennsport’s Mekong River for the soup, but stayed for, and enjoyed a “bountiful Vietnamese chicken salad ‘go gai’”; “Salmon-pink footballs” of ground spiced shrimp threaded onto sugarcane skewers; and ground beef rolls that “rocked.” The bun bo Hue delivered a “deep, meaty taste brightened with the perfumey citrus tones of lemongrass” in the “big bowl of steaming hot goodness” that he came in search of. [Courier-Post]

• UPenn’s 34th Street checked out the Center City’s Federal Donuts and determined that the fancy doughnuts “quirky flavors certainly provide a unique and memorable touch,” but the “delectable middle ground of absolute perfection” in the texture is the “true artistry” at work there. The fried chicken was “finest fried bird… ever.” [34th Street]

‘Spot-On’ Yanako Plays Things ‘a Shade to Safe’; Bun Bo