First Look at Bill’s, John DeLucie’s Classic Midtown Steak House in
With his partners Sean Largotta and Mark Amadei, John DeLucie has opened Bill’s, an update of the former Bill’s Gay Nineties, the 88-year-old former speakeasy which closed on 54th Street in March. Jason Hall, formerly the chef de cusine at Gotham Bar and Grill and Crown, is cooking a menu that includes three dry-aged steaks; a smoked bacon chop with sauerkraut; lobster-spaghetti fra diavolo; and an immense veal shank for two, which is braised in soffrito and garnished with gremolata. Ben Scorah has contributed a cocktail menu of classics based on recipes from classic bartender’s manuals, including a house rickey with vodka and ginger-lemon soda; a Sazerac made from rye, aged cognac, and gingerbread flavors’ and another called the “Hanky Panky,” which contains the NY Distilling Company’s Dorothy Parker gin, vermouth, and Fernet Branca. Check out the space, and the menu, ahead.
Bill’s, 57 E. 54th St., nr. Madison Ave.; 212-518-2727


The dining room. Check out that fireplace.

The wood-paneled room has been redecorated with taxidermy, nautical items, and lots of framed prints and lithographs.

Crudités with Green Goddess, for dipping.

Plateau de mer, with jumbo tiger prawns, osetra caviar service, Jonah crab claws, lobster, oysters, ceviche, and clams.

The Gingerbread Sazerac: Bulleit Rye Whiskey, aged Cognac, gingerbread spice, and Peychaud’s bitters in an absinthe-washed glass.

Bill'z Royal Rickey, made with Aylesbury Duck vodka, Cedia Acai Berry, Chartreuse and fresh ginger lemonade.

35 Day Prime Porterhouse, topped with cremini mushroom and escargot butter. Pommes soufflés on the side.

Pommes soufflés, always ready for their close-up.
Braised veal shank with soffrito and gremolata.
The exterior.