Still hasn’t found the bulgogi she’s looking for.
Photo: Melissa Hom
You can take the food critic out of the restaurants, they say, but you cannot take the restaurants out of the critic. For Sunday’s special food-themed New York Times Magazine, former critics talk about what stayed with them after they left the job: William Grimes had sublime bread pudding at Cannelle and dismal Cherry Coke Jell-O at Hudson Cafeteria. Ruth Reichl waited for bulgogi to go boom, but that never happened. Meanwhile, Frank Bruni’s not shy about shouting out both Empellón Cocina and Perla, his current obsessions. [NYT]
