The Other Critics

Miller Raves About Abbot’s Cellar; Hirsch Loves the Playfulness of Lolo; Roth Digs Into Bar Tartine’s New Sandwiches

Abbot's Cellar
Abbot’s Cellar Photo: Grub Street

Virginia Miller is first out of the gate this week with a review of Abbot’s Cellar, though it’s part of a group of shorter reviews of new beer-pairing restaurants including St. Vincent (which is more wine-focused, but they do have nice beer too), and Upcider, Polk Street’s new cider bar. Of Abbot’s she says, “As a temple dedicated to beer, the Cellar succeeds immediately,” and she goes on to say plenty of nice things about chef Adam Dulye’s food. She loves the bone marrow dish, and the braised rabbit with handkerchief pasta and English peas, and she also digs the “insanely juicy” pork chop. The only misstep she mentions is a dry roast pheasant. [SFBG]

Jesse Hirsch captures the whimsical spirit of Mission favorite Lolo thusly: “Walls are papered in bean advertisements and Mexican lottery results. Your check comes in an infant’s sneaker. Food is plated with a merry, Mad Hatter design sense.” He notes that the original Turkish-Mexican mashup of the place has given way to a primarily Latin-focused menu, but it’s still fun and unpretentious. He’s mad about the beef-tongue sliders (“Thin slices are then feathered onto chewy brioche buns, topped with an ancho-infused tomato sauce and a slaw of cabbage, kalamata olives and sun-dried tomatoes.”), and he also likes the chicken tinga tostadas, and the “salmon medallions polka-dotted a plate ringed in panko crumbs and crushed pistachios before being finished with a loopy drizzle of wasabi cream.” [Examiner]

And finally Weekly critic Anna Roth visits Bar Tartine’s new sandwich counter, open during the day, and conclude there will be lines out the door very soon. She likes the creative, open-faced smørrebrød sandwiches, and the pickled green cherry tomatoes. She concludes that she’ll be doing a lot of line-standing herself at this place. “Things on bread is a basic concept; their approach is anything but, and as they keep us guessing, we will keep queueing up.” [SF Weekly, Earlier Slideshow]

Miller Raves About Abbot’s Cellar; Hirsch Loves the Playfulness of Lolo;