The Other Critics

Sbraga Says Bull’s BBQ Is ‘Bangin’’; ‘Exceptionally Soggy’ Bread Dooms the Sandwiches at Milk & Honey Cafe

• With Top Chef champ Kevin Sbraga in tow, Phillymag’s John Gonzalez takes on the edible offerings at Citizens Bank Park. In the “flood of questionable gastronomy” they sample, Sbraga rates Bull’s pulled-pork sandwich as “bangin’.” The broccoli rabe on Tony Luke’s roast pork sandwich was “perfect” for him, and rocks “great provolone.” Chickie’s & Pete’s Crabfries were “delicious,” but the hoagie from Capo’s was “weird.” [Phillymag]

• For Citypaper, Adam Erace checked out still-new Morgan’s Pier, where (former) Meme chef David Katz has come up with a menu rminiscent of backyard barbecue. The five-ounce sirloin patty burger, he writes, “delivered a primal, straightforward satisfaction that think-ier versions just can’t convey.” Though he lamented the fact that “of three starters [he] tried, three were fried,” the Vietnamese-style salt ’n’ pepper squid with a sweet-and-sour chili-lime dip was “crispy,” and the “ripe, red, double-breaded Jersey tomatoes dabbed with horseradish sour cream” were “crunchy.” But the “chicken wings slathered in tangy, fiery pineapple-ancho sauce” were “strangely rubbery!” [Citypaper]

• At Milk & Honey Cafe at the Sister Cities Park Brian Freedman gives the prepackaged sandwiches a whirl only to find that the vegetarian option was plagued by “exceptionally soggy” bread. On the flip side, the local turkey-laden Franklin was “was so dried out that it was difficult to gnaw through.” Side salads showed “more consistent level of both conception and execution.” The quiche Lorraine was “excellent,” and the “pastries are also worth checking out.” [PW]

Sbraga Says Bull’s BBQ Is ‘Bangin’’;