The Other Critics

LaBan ‘Compelled’ by American Sardine Bar’s ‘Sloppy Indulgence’; Bistro in Haddonfield’s Dishes Are ‘Priced Like It’s 1921’

• Chef Scott Schroeder and John Longacre get a solid two-dinger from Craig LaBan for their follow up to South Philadelphia Tap Room, the craft beer and sandwich-obsessed American Sardine Bar. Citing Schroeder’s previous stints in the fine-dining realm at places like dearly departed ¡Pasión! and and also defunct Brasserie Perrier, LaBan vouches for the chef, stating that he “has kitchen skills, obvious even within the limits of an all-sandwich menu.” The signature sardine sandwich, he writes, is “seriously good to eat,” while “sloppy indulgence” is invoked to describe the beer-braised pork butt that’s “piled over rolls flowing with house-blended Boursin goat cheese” on the bar’s pork sandwich. The “wonderfully savory” LaFrieda blend showcased in the patty melt is touted as the “most compelling burger variations” he’s had in a while, and the “glorious” Yuengling-battered onion rings are “pretty much enough to count [him] as a regular.” [Inquirer]

• At Bistro in Haddonfield, Adam Erace is pleased to find “dishes priced like it’s 1921,” but not so keen on pies he feels are “a bit sweet for [his] palate.” Though the crab meat, cream cheese and aged Cheddar crab bread “sounds good,” he advises that “unfortunately” it “was not.” A “massive” feta cheese and watermelon salad, he adds, “redeemed the earlier effort.” The New Jersey peach preserves that come along with the bistro’s Monte Cristo sandwich was “a nice touch even if you have to spread it on yourself.” [Courier-Post]

LaBan ‘Compelled’ by American Sardine Bar’s ‘Sloppy