The Other Critics

State Bird Provisions Gets Some National Love

One of State Bird's dim-sum style carts.
One of State Bird’s dim-sum style carts.

In addition to the shout-out to Del Popolo in the NYT over the weekend, the paper also gave some love to State Bird Provisions in the Travel section (via the same writer, Nick Czap). Czap points back to former Times reporter R.W. Apple saying of chef Stuart Brioza in 2003 that “he will be one of the best chefs in America, full stop, in just a few years.” Though not quite a review, the write-up is nonetheless complimentary, mentioning the duck-neck dumplings and the “intensely crispy griddle-fried trout fillet” in brown butter. Also he calls pastry chef Nicole Krasinski’s rose geranium ice cream with streusel topping “a singular delight.” [NYT]

State Bird Provisions Gets Some National Love