If you haven’t been to one of Big Jones’ Bourbon Society dinners, you’re missing out on the only other restaurant in town doing such fascinating historical and cultural recreations of a long-ago time and place. For a dinner last week starring bourbons from Buffalo Trace Distillery in Frankfort, Kentucky, Chef Paul Fehribach set out to recreate the legendary mutton barbecue around Owensboro, Kentucky, which grew out of the presence of a substantial wool industry in the area. Along with mutton smoked out back of the Andersonville restaurant, he dished up classic Kentucky dishes such as beer cheese, fried green tomatoes and buckwheat strawberry shortcake, while Master Distiller Harlen Wheatley, only the sixth distiller in the company’s 200-year history, treated us to five tastings of their bourbon (or, in the case of White Dog, the kind of moonshine that could be bourbon if it spent enough time in a barrel). It was a chance to taste things totally out of the Chicago restaurant mainstream, and justified Fehribach’s claim up front that after New Orleans, Kentucky has the most diverse and accomplished cuisine in the South. See our slideshow of the event below.