The Other Critics

‘Unexpected Bumps’ Hold Back Russet’s Potential; Wedge + Fig Serves a ‘Perfect Grown-Up Treat’

• For the first act at Rittenhouse BYOB Russet, Craig LaBan is impressed with the “exquisite pastas, charcuterie, and vivid foraged flavors.” He notes Chef Andrew Wood’s “considerable potential, and the distinguished lineage,” and how “few restaurants live the notion” of the ubiquitous farm-to-table tag “quite as thoroughly as Russet.” However some “unexpected bumps,” like undercooked salmon and a not-so-tender cut of pork, came as disappointments in act two. [Inquirer]

• At Old City’s Wedge + Fig, Adam Erace decides that borscht is not one of the stronger suits. He says that “everything else delivered,” including the “draped in nutty Serrano ham” La Mancha salad, but the cheese plates, he writes, “could use some more imagination in the accoutrement department.” The “overstuffed” John Oates sandwich, with its “uneven stack” was unable to “attain an even crispness on the panini press.” For dessert, mini cheesecake-like chevre “tuffets” are “neither too sweet nor too tangy,” and serve as “a perfect grown-up treat.” [Courier-Post]

‘Unexpected Bumps’ Hold Back Russet’s Potential; Wedge + Fig