The Other Critics

Franco Luigi’s Is ‘Anything But Plain’; Seasonal Comforts at Heirloom Ensure Happiness

• Adam Erace checks out South Philly’s FrancoLuigi’s and confirms what everyone suspects: “not much has changed” at the time-honored “trattoria-cum-pizzeria.” The mussels, he writes, “spread their hinges to reveal nuggets of plump, briny meat, set off by all those tomatoes, plus plenty of garlic and herbs.” Still, “impeccably crisp lettuce” was sidelined by “unappealingly thin and yellow” dressing that was “wimpy on the garlic” in the Caesar salad. The plain white pizza, with its “invisible ingredients… asserting themselves” and cheese with “proper elasticity” was “anything but plain.” [Courier-Post]

• Phillymag’s Trey Popp is latest to jump on the Vedge bandwagon, and proclaim that it’s not just one of the country’s best vegan restaurants, but “one of the best restaurants, period.” He writes that the terrine of avocado, smoked tofu and roasted golden beets “transcended its bagels-and-lox inspiration,” and a veggies plate that “will change your whole way of thinking about radishes forever.” Meanwhile at Heirloom, Popp advises sticking to “ordering comfort food that’s in tune with the season” to ensure that “you’ll be happy and well fed.” [Phillymag]

Franco Luigi’s Is ‘Anything But Plain’; Seasonal Comforts at