The Other Critics

Stateside ‘Deeply Satisfies’; ‘Everything Is Delicious’ at Alla Spina

• East Passyunk Ave.’s Stateside continues racking up the positive press. PW’s Brian Freedman is latest to attest to the “deeply satisfying” nature of Chef George Sabatino’s small plates. The “velvety lid of pear preserves” that tops the jar of housemade rabbit rillettes, he writes, “makes it impossible to not wipe the inside of the glass clean with your bread.” The much talked about pickles “benefit from whiffs of unexpected spice,” and the pork liver terrine is “a chunky, funky wonder.” [PW]

• Adam Erace takes on Le Bercail’s “heady melange of boldly spiced recipes from Senegal, Ghana, Ivory Coast and Mali,” where the “portions are enormous” and the prices are “cut-rate.” “Moist” braised chicken thighs and “zesty” grilled shrimp with “tumeric-tinted” onion relish are successful, and the “butter-blackened edges” on the crepes are “ just as feather-light as the best French café’s.” [Citypaper]

Alla Spina, “the most casual and alcohol-focused Vetri venture yet,” offers “an impressive list of domestic and imported beer,” with its “slightly confusing” menu. But “everything is delicious.” The Guinea hen leg Bolognese and mozzarella curd-laden poutine is a “rich, salty standout,” and the Italian rarebit is a “savory winner.” “Considering size” and the “mound of chips that came alongside each,” both the veal Milanese hoagie and the mortadella hot dog “were steals.” The housemade soft-serve ice cream is “the perfect sweet ending to a memorable meal.” [34th Street]

Stateside ‘Deeply Satisfies’; ‘Everything Is Delicious’