The Other Critics

Ryan Sutton Roots for the Grub at Madison Square Garden; Pete Wells Hails New Nordic’s NYC Arrival at Acme

Linsanity may have died down, but Ryan Sutton finds another bit of Madison Square Garden to fawn over: the menu. The offerings at the sports hub are “great grub from local chefs that can be eaten with one hand,” he writes. Best bets include chopped brisket from Hill Country, or sausage heroes from The Dutch’s Andrew Carmellini. [Bloomberg]

The New Nordic cuisine at Acme has become the toast of the town of late, and Pete Wells is the latest critic to fall for its charms. He loves the food at Mads Refslund’s new restaurant, and the ambiance wins his praise, too; the eatery comes away with two stars. Order the hay-roasted sunchokes, which are “undeniably wonderful, enriched with butter, melted Gruyère and actual winter truffles.” [NYT]

Just in time for Passover, “Tables for Two” rates the Eastern European Jewish cuisine at Kutsher’s Tribeca. “Authentic Kosher it’s not,” Shauna Lyon notes, but she finds the fare to be nevertheless “accomplished and delicious.” Lyon recommends the classics for breakfast: eggs and smoked fish. [NYer]

Robert Sietsema ventures to Queens to try Tacos Morelos, and he comes away sated. The red pipian mole is so tasty, “you’ll wish your neighborhood taqueria served it.” [VV]

Lauren Shockey finds Danny Meyer’s North End Grill a little boring, sure—but she does like some of the dishes. “Cornmeal-battered cod throats … roost over a meunière sauce that’s miles better than the rustic lemon-parsley-brown-butter treatment common in French bistros,” she writes. It might not be enough to raise the profile of Battery Park City, but it’ll do for lunch. [VV]

Ryan Sutton Roots for the Grub at Madison Square Garden; Pete Wells Hails New