The Other Critics

Ulivo Is the ‘Best New Dining Value’; Tashan Is ‘Irresistible’

• Craig LaBan checks out Bella Vista BYOB Ulivo, where he declares chef-owner Joe Scarpone’s “vivid Italian plates” one of the “best new dining values in the city.” From the “ethereal ricotta gnocchi” that glows in a “halo of truffle butter” to the “delicate ribbons of tagliatelle” and “stewy ragu of tender pork steeped with rosemary,” show that Scarpone “was born to cook.” Though severs were “a little scattered and inexperienced,” the service he writes, is “pleasant enough.” Noise seems to be the only real problem. [Inquirer]

• At Tashan, Alan Richman gushes over Sylva Senat’s Naga Beef Sümi, saying that the chef “uplifts and embellishes everything we love,” and ultimately determines the dish, one of his five best for the year, “irresistible.” [GQ]

• in a search for a real soul food experience, Hawk Krall finds himself at the Gigi and Big R truck in University City. He determines the jerk chicken “super awesome” and “insanely flavorful.” And the “dirty pile of rice and beans” served with it he writes is “delicious” when “soaked through with jerk juice.” [Drawing For Food]

Ulivo Is the ‘Best New Dining Value’; Tashan Is