The Other Critics

Josh Sens Calls AQ ‘Promising,’ and the New Lers Ros ‘Fiery’

The winter birches at AQ.
The winter birches at AQ. Photo: Joey DeRuy

San Francisco Magazine critic Josh Sens notes that “Nothing on [chef Mark Liberman’s] menu is as simple as it sounds” at AQ, and the high-concept dishes are especially great for people who like to ask their server questions about each component. He calls the place “promising” but still “young” and “trying to find its footing in a crowded landscape.” All in all: two and a half stars. [SF Mag, Bauer’s earlier take]

Sens also pays a visit to the new Lers Ros Hayes Valley, where he finds Tom Silargorn’s food just as “fiery” and not dumbed-down as at the first location. He calls out the stir-fried garlic frog, and the “balanced” kha kai that’s better than most others. Overall he calls the restaurant “a slightly dressed-up spin-off” of the original, and gives it two stars. [SF Mag]

And Sens’s colleague Stett Holbrook files a capsule review of Cindy Pawlcyn’s Brassica in St. Helena, calling it “a pitch-perfect emporium of Mediterranean fare” with great service and an impressive, California-centric wine list with 70 bottles by the glass. Verdict: two and a half stars. [SF Mag]

Josh Sens Calls AQ ‘Promising,’ and the New Lers Ros