The Other Critics

Unterman and Miller Coo About State Bird Provisions; Josh Sens Loves Parallel 37; Boer Calls Origen ‘Uneven’

State Bird Provisions
State Bird Provisions Photo: Courtesy of State Bird Provisions

Patty U. calls the food at Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski’s new Fillmore restaurant, State Bird Provisions, “radiant” and “sensually surprising.” She recommends pacing yourself with some of the smaller plates that circle the room, recommending the “fabulous” flatbreads and the carnitas-stuffed squid, if you see it. Also, she says the namesake dish of crispy fried quail is a must. [Examiner]

Over at the Guardian, Virginia Miller is similarly thrilled with the place, writing that “the spirit of jazz [for which the Fillmore is known] is present in playful, dim sum-style presentation — and in the improvisatory way that [the chefs] change the menu almost daily.” She’s in love with the oxtail and seven-pepper flatbread, and the “captivating” vegetarian options. And she calls the place “unlike anywhere else.” [SFBG]

Josh Sens wastes no time dancing on the grave of the Dining Room at the Ritz, comparing a night at the former restaurant to “eating very well in a funeral home.” He remains a fan of chef Ron Siegel’s food, and celebrates the modernization of the Ritz happening at the slick new Parallel 37. He writes, ” Even in the humblest-seeming dishes, Siegel’s high breeding surfaces.” He points to a perfect dish of scallops with yuzu and cubes of green tea gelée; polenta fries with chanterelle relish; and an amazing sounding “pâté” of chicken thighs served with the cardamom-braised chicken dish. He likes the redesigned dining room, says the bar is “the place to be” on any given evening, and mentions nothing about the deafening din that bothered Michael Bauer so much. He also compliments Siegel for being “adept” at balancing the demands of a hotel restaurant (catering to business travelers, etc.) with satisfying the local foodie mafia of San Francisco. He honors Siegel with three stars. [SF Mag]

And across the Bay, Nicholas Boer checks out Origen in Berkeley, noting some promise, but says that some dishes are uneven and “the most memorable dishes here are the least manipulated.” But as for the whole farm-to-fork angle they’re touting, “this caring concept doesn’t always translate to the plate.” All told: two stars. [Chron]

Unterman and Miller Coo About State Bird Provisions; Josh Sens Loves Parallel