The Other Critics

Sietsema Finds Much to Like at Kutsher’s Tribeca; Cuozzo Finds Suburbia at Casa Nonna

Robert Sietsema visits Kutsher’s Tribeca, a Jewish-American eatery where “general Danish-modern decor … makes it seem like Mad Men on vacation.” He isn’t fond of the chopped liver or duck pastrami, but does suggest the smoked veal tongue or matzo-ball soup, which he claims is “close to perfection.” [VV]

“Tables for Two” wines and dines at Tertulia, a tapas bar that boasts an “Asturian-cider-house aesthetic” and “straightforward standards as well as imaginative twists on classic tapas.” The restaurant’s interpretation of cojonudo (quail eggs and chorizon on toast) “falls somewhere between brilliant and ballsy,” while cabecero, sobrassada, and chorizo “afford a chance to see a manual fly-wheel Berkel slicer in action.” [NYer]

For his first review as the paper’s new critic, Pete Wells pens a rave about Wong, saying, “it’s been a long time since Asian fusion cooking has promised thrills of this sort.” Wells suggests the tender and crispy duck tongues, as well as the wreckfish and pork plate. But for a thrill? Try the duck-fat ice cream, he suggests, because “best dishes at Wong have a where-did-that-come-from quality.” [NYT]

Dave Cook is impressed by Peruvian joint Lima Limon, where one can choose from a half-dozen varieties of ceviche, with additions such as octopus, squid, and corvina. Cook also suggests the papa a la huancaina, “slabs of boiled potato swamped by spicy, creamy cheese sauce.” And for dessert? “Ring-shaped fritters called picarones,” though “their gently spiced syrup remains a mystery.” [NYT]

Steve Cuozzo is less than impressed by Casa Nonna, an Italian restaurant which he claims is truer to suburbia than that its claim to Italian roots. Cuozzo mentions only the swordfish, which will run you $41 and is “sloppily topped with greens, heaped like a teepee, and random chunks of lobster.” [NYP]

Ryan Sutton checks into Catch, where the food is “part fancy French seafood spot, part Japanese sushi bar and part Italian-American clam shack with Chinese influences,” and runs you a not-cheap $100 per person. Sutton is underwhelmed by the “mediocre” shrimp cocktail, “flavorless” chicken Parmesan, and warns readers to “avoid” the overly sugary alcoholic drinks. [Bloomberg]

Sietsema Finds Much to Like at Kutsher’s Tribeca; Cuozzo Finds Suburbia at