The Other Critics

Serious Eats’ Dennis Lee Braves Sushi at New Loop Walgreen’s

Walsushi.
Walsushi. Photo: Dennis Lee, courtesy of Serious Eats Chicago

You remember, of course, the mega-Walgreen’s that we (and everybody else) reported on last week, opening in the Loop with an over-the-top array of food counters from sushi to fro-yo to an expensive wine department. Dennis Lee of Serious Eats Chicago did what we hoped to avoid doing, which is actually go there for sushi, and lives to tell the tale in an amusing essay. His verdict is that it’s not bad, at least no worse than many another supermarket sushi counter. But that bald summary hardly does justice to the severe episode of cognitive dissonance the place seems to instill in him, summed up by the photo he snapped of the sushi counter workers, who look vaguely disoriented, as if they’d been teleported to the planet Zuub-7 to make maki rolls. It’s a funny piece that will make you grateful it was him, not you.

Serious Eats’ Dennis Lee Braves Sushi at New Loop Walgreen’s