The Other Critics

Michael Bauer Continues Steakhouse Tour With Bourbon Steak Update; Bonné Revisits Big 4

Right after slightly upgrading Harris’ last week to two and a half stars, Michael Bauer swings back to Bourbon Steak just a year after they opened and finds things not quite as interesting as they were before. “When a steak house cuts back on bells and whistles, you get, well, a steak house.” He complains of a simplified menu, some wine served too warm, and some iffy service, but get this: The stars don’t change. The place got three stars in 2010, and they notch another three this week. To the credit of chef Omri Aflalo, the non-steak dishes are apparently quite good, and the steak still solid. But this is another case of reading a review where you really expect to see a certain star verdict, and Mr. Bauer confounds us again. [Chron]

Also in the Chron today, Jon Bonné gives us a Bar Bites column on Big 4, that swanky den of a restaurant atop Nob Hill, inside the Huntington Hotel. Though it’s not a formal review, he compliments them on a properly made rye Manhattan, and says the burger is your best bet at the bar. Also, “Dark wood, rugs and period lithographs exude a Nob Hill sort of clubby influence … It’s one of the last San Francisco spots where a tie or a dress will make you feel more comfy.” [Chron]

Michael Bauer Continues Steakhouse Tour With Bourbon Steak Update; Bonné