In this week’s New York, Adam Platt turns his palate to La Promenade des Anglais and Mas (la grillade), where “high-end chefs go down-market in an attempt to suit the times.” At the former, chef Alain “Allegretti finally seems to have hit on a style … for this new dining age.” At his “cheerfully unfussy restaurant,” the “best dishes tend to be rooted in his Mediterranean background,” including zucchini-flower beignets, Provençal fish soup, and octopus a la plancha; the restaurant receives two stars. At the latter restaurant, “a kind of casual bookend” to Mas (farmhouse), nearly everything is cooked over an open flame. “Unfortunately most of the dishes I sampled were devoid of that just-off-the-fire crackle and gusto that characterize the best kind of open-flame cooking,” writes our critic, awarding one star.
Meanwhile, Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld address a burgeoning culinary phenomenon: athlete chefs. Despite shows like Fat Chef, they write, “you might even say that there’s an inverse relationship between Michelin stars and body-mass index.” It makes sense, since chefs need to be on TV these days and tend to be adrenaline junkies anyway; behold the fittest toques in town.
And if you happen to travel to Mexico City anytime soon, here are the Urbanist’s picks on where to splurge, get a taco, or dive into some ceviche.