The Other Critics

Kauffman Calls Wo Hing ‘Polished,’ But Not Always On Point

Wo Hing, from the mezzanine.
Wo Hing, from the mezzanine. Photo: Grub Street

We now have the second professional opinion in, after Mr. Bauer’s, on Charles Phan’s Mission homecoming effort, Wo Hing General Store. Jonathan Kauffman writes, “The cuisine may be different [from Slanted Door], but Phan’s vision is familiar, refined over the course of 16 years and a half-dozen restaurants: smart cocktails, fascinating wine and tea lists, and an aesthetic with the cool polish of a Brancusi sculpture.” But, as for the food, he says it’s not always successful. He loves the stir-fried wheat noodles with pork, “which have a surprising bite, as if Michael Tusk sent over a couple of pounds of his best fettuccine for Phan’s cooks to stir-fry.” And he says the yuba salad and Sichuan red-braised lamb are winners. But he’s bored with the jooks and unimpressed with a number of dishes, echoing some of Bauer’s sentiments, though a little more kindly. [SF Weekly]

Kauffman Calls Wo Hing ‘Polished,’ But Not Always On Point