We were walking the pavement looking for hot tips about the restaurant scene. We stopped at a shoeshine stand. “What do you know about Kevin Hickey’s new place Allium in the Four Seasons Hotel, Johnny?” we asked. “I don’t know nothin’ about it,” Johnny said. We slipped him a fin and Johnny leaned in close, so as not to be overheard by other food bloggers. “He’s makin’ his own beer right now at Goose Island,” Johnny said. At last, the inside dope we needed. We raced over there and sure enough, Hickey and a couple of his chefs were there, working alongside Goose Island Clybourn head brewer Jared Rouben. They were making a Belgian Red Ale which Hickey planned to call Allium Roses— “red onions”— which will be ready about the time the new restaurant opens in late February. Here’s our slideshow about the brewing process at Goose Island as Hickey and crew experienced it, and a little more about Hickey’s plans for Allium.
Kevin Hickey takes a sip.