The Other Critics

Bauer Says at Keiko à Nob Hill, You’re ‘Dining With the One Percent’

The main dining room at Keiko à Nob Hill.
The main dining room at Keiko à Nob Hill. Photo: Brian Smeets/Grub Street

Where does our Sunday Bauer review take us this week? Keiko à Nob Hill, the two-and-a-half-month-old restaurant from former El Paseo owners Seigo Takei and his chef wife Keiko Takahashi. Mr. Bauer appreciates the “Old World ambiance” of the space (formerly Charles Nob Hill), and the “feminine delicacy and airy presentation” of Takahashi’s cooking. He doesn’t give too many specific compliments to the food, but praises her creativity and seems to still like her signature foie gras dish with espresso sauce. He also notes some slightly “clumsy” service, but says he’d go back for more of the lounge menu items, like the Japanese-style fried chicken, crisp pork tonkatsu, and the “outstanding” beef tongue persillade. The overall verdict: three stars. [Chron, Earlier slideshow]

Bauer Says at Keiko à Nob Hill, You’re ‘Dining With the One